OTI

[admin]

Hi Spike,

I've seen the rose engine adaption in your photo album.

It looks like a really elegant and easy to make rose engine. The rosette is behind the chuck (or faceplate) and you have a rubber that drives the linear bearing attached baseplate which holds the laminate trimmer on the cross slide.

Do you cut the center of the boxes with the same setup? How do you cut the underside of the top??

It really very clever!!

Dennis

[Spike]

Thanks Dennis!

I wiil start posting images to this thread and explain "my" process.

Over view shot
- Template mounted behind the chuck/faceplate.
- Table on linear bearings with spring mounted between.
- Router mounted on X,Y vice for good control.

[admin]

Hi Spike,

I was thinking about ways hold the rosette on the Oneway spindle without losing threads for holding the chuck or faceplate. I came upon one way in the SOT bulletins; Vol IX, No 44, pages 8 and 9, named: A Simple Rosette Holder... this might be an excellent adapter for this purpose.

Dennis

[admin]

Hi Spike,

I thinking about your design, you must have a base that sits on the Oneway bed and holds the linear slides which then supports the cross slide support.

How do you hold this base to the Oneway bed??

Dennis

[Spike]

Right now I and using clamps, you can see them in the image above right under the Oneway label.

My goal was to drill a hole through the bottom plate and then use a bolt and T nut.

I will look up the " A Simple Rosette Holder... " Thanks



Spike

[Spike]

Here is a better view of the rosette mounted behind the chuck.

[Spike]

And how I get the blanks ready.

I epoxy a "holding" piece on the top and base.

[admin]

What's the process with these, cut the outside of the bottom and then the inside, flipping it around will allow you to clean up the bottom. Got it...

But what steps do you use on the top??

Dennis

[Spike]

Next step, I mount the bottom on the lathe and cut the outside. Keeping it large for now.

[Spike]

Then I cut the inside, to the depth and size i want

[Spike]

Then finish the bottom inside with a round bit


Then I mount the top and cut the lip so I get a good tight fit to the bottom


I finish the inside of the top


I remount the bottom and place the lid on it and cut the outside profile so the base and top look as one..


I then give them a light sanding with 600.


Then I mount the lid on a vacuum plate and finish the top



I do the same for the base



Time for a little buffing


And.......








Oops!!!!

[Spike]

Dont' ya just love it when that happens?

This is how not to finish it...

Note to self....... don't let the buffing wheel catch your work, it will launch it across the studio...

[Topzman]

Spike,

I have mounted a catcher's glove behind my buffing wheel. Sometimes I also strike out.

[admin]

Spike, thanks for the great explanation of the process that you are using! It really helps!!

Don't you hate when the buffing wheel grabs your pieces!! I've got then buffing on the outboard side of my headstock using an spindle extender that has the threads for the Beall system.

This one came from Craft Supplies, Utah:



Now that doesn't stop it from grabbing, it just puts me into a position where I can more easily hold them. I'm going to have to still get one of Jon's catcher mitts. But now I need it less often!!

Dennis

[Spike]

Jon,

That is too damm funny!


Dennis,

I can't mount anything on the outboard as that is where my vacuum is hooked up... Well, I guess I could, but I don't want to change things out everytime..

Maybe I will make a "L" board covered with a thick SOFT foam that I can place there when buffing....

[admin]

I regularly swap out a hand wheel, vacuum attachment and buffer. I guess it could be considered set-up time but it's pretty quick, 2 set screws and a twist...

Maybe I'm just used to it?

Dennis

[Spike]

Good idea.

I will give it a shot next round.